What is the recorded longevity of the 5.7 L hemi v8?

While the average lifespan of a 5.7L Hemi V8 is between 200,000 and 300,000 miles, there are extreme cases of longevity recorded by dedicated owners: 

• 1 Million Miles: The highest recorded mileage for a 5.7L Hemi V8 is 1,015,324 miles (as of early 2023) on a 2004 Ram 1500. The original engine lasted 606,218 miles before being replaced with a long block.
• 500,000+ Miles: Multiple owners have documented reaching the 500,000-mile mark. One notable case is a 2008 Ram 1500 Big Horn that reached 500,000 miles in 2024 with original components.
• High-Mileage Fleet/Work Use: Reports from owners include a 2015 model reaching 720,000 km (~447,000 miles) and a 2012 model with 550,000 km (~341,000 miles). 

Key Factors for Reaching High Mileage

To push a 5.7L Hemi toward these recorded milestones, experts and high-mileage owners emphasize:

• Strict Oil Intervals: Using high-quality full-synthetic oil every 5,000 to 7,500 miles is the most cited factor for protecting lifters and the camshaft.
• Avoiding Excessive Idling: Many Hemi failures, such as the “Hemi Tick,” are attributed to lack of oil pressure at idle, which can wear out roller lifters.
• Spark Plug Maintenance: This engine uses a dual-spark plug setup (16 plugs total) that requires replacement every 30,000 to 40,000 miles to maintain engine health. 

How many miles average does a RAM pickup truck is supposed to deliver?

A well-maintained RAM pickup truck typically delivers between 200,000 and 300,000 miles over its lifespan. For the average driver, this translates to roughly 13 to 20 years of service. The exact mileage you can expect depends heavily on the engine type and how the truck is used:

Average Mileage by Engine Type

• 5.7L HEMI V8: Known for its longevity, often reaching 300,000 miles or more with proper care.
• 3.6L Pentastar V6: Generally exceeds 250,000 miles.
• 6.7L Cummins Turbo Diesel: These heavy-duty engines are designed for extreme durability and can often surpass 400,000 miles. Ewald Chrysler Jeep Dodge Ram +4

Factors Influencing Longevity

• Maintenance: Consistent oil changes and routine inspections are the most critical factors in reaching high mileage.
• Usage: Trucks used for daily commuting typically last longer than those used for constant heavy towing or hauling, which places more stress on the drivetrain and suspension.
• Driving Habits: Responsible driving—avoiding aggressive acceleration and braking—can significantly extend a truck’s life.

Maintenance checklist specifically designed to prevent the common “Hemi Tick” at high mileage

To prevent the common “Hemi Tick” in a 5.7L Hemi V8, experts emphasize maintaining high oil pressure and clean internal passages. This “tick” often results from either an exhaust manifold leak (broken studs) or the more serious lifter and camshaft failure caused by oil starvation at the top of the engine. 

High-Mileage Prevention Checklist

System	Action Item	Frequency / Detail
Lubrication	Shorten Oil Changes	Change oil every 5,000 miles. Avoid the standard 10,000-mile interval.
	Premium Oil/Filter	Use high-quality full-synthetic oil (e.g., Pennzoil Ultra Platinum or Redline 5W-30) and a high-flow filter like Mopar or Royal Purple.
	Additives	Consider Molybdenum additives to reduce friction or a cleaner like Sea Foam before oil changes to dissolve sludge.
Operation	Minimize Idling	Long idles drop oil pressure, starving the lifters. If you must idle, occasionally rev gently or drive to circulate oil.
	Dynamic Driving	Occasionally reaching higher RPMs (above 3,000) can help “drench” the camshaft in oil.
Upgrades	High-Volume Pump	Install a Hellcat oil pump (Melling high-volume) to increase idle oil pressure by 5–10 PSI.
	Exhaust Manifold	Replace factory manifolds with aftermarket shorty headers to prevent warped flanges and snapped studs.
Monitoring	VVT Solenoid	If a new tick appears, inspect the VVT solenoid screen for metal bits; early detection can save the entire engine.

What is the so called “Hemi Tick” in the RAM 5.7l?

The “Hemi Tick” is a catch-all term for several different types of ticking or tapping noises common in RAM 5.7L Hemi engines. While some are harmless, others indicate serious mechanical issues. 

1. Exhaust Manifold Leak (Most Common) 

This is often mistaken for a lifter issue. It typically sounds like a loud, sharp tick during a cold start that fades away as the engine warms up. 

• Cause: The cast iron manifolds expand and contract at different rates than the aluminum heads, which frequently causes the rear exhaust manifold bolts to snap.
• Outcome: Once the engine heat causes the metal to expand, the gap often reseals itself, silencing the noise. 

2. Camshaft and Roller Lifter Failure (The “True” Hemi Tick) 

This is a more serious mechanical failure that sounds like a rhythmic, metallic “pinging” or tapping, most noticeable when the engine is at operating temperature and idling. 

• Cause: Needle bearings inside the roller lifters seize up, preventing the roller from spinning. This causes the lifter to “skid” across the camshaft lobe rather than rolling, eventually flattening the lobe.
• Outcome: If ignored, this lead to engine misfires (often P0300–P0308 codes) and requires an expensive replacement of both the lifters and the camshaft. 

3. Normal Operating Noises

Not all ticking is a sign of failure. Some sounds are characteristic of the engine’s design: 

• Injector Tick: A rapid, light clicking from the fuel injectors as they open and close. This is a constant sound at all temperatures and is perfectly normal.
• Hydraulic Lifter Bleed-down: A brief rattle for 2–3 seconds immediately after starting an engine that has sat for a long period. This stops once oil pressure builds. 

Comparison Table for Diagnosis

Noise Type	When It Happens	Seriousness
Exhaust Leak	Loud on cold start; disappears when warm	Moderate; requires new bolts/gaskets
Lifter/Cam Failure	Consistent rhythmic tap; most audible at hot idle	Critical; requires internal engine repair
Injector Tick	Constant light clicking	Normal; no action needed
Lifter Bleed-down	Rattle for 2-3 seconds after long sitting	Normal; no action needed

Are you hearing the noise only immediately after starting your truck, or does it continue even after the engine has warmed up?

Explain me both

The “both” you are referring to are the two primary—but very different—causes of the infamous Hemi Tick in the 5.7L RAM: a relatively simple exhaust manifold leak and a catastrophic roller lifter/camshaft failure

1. The Exhaust Manifold Leak (Common & Fixable) 

This is caused by the design of the exhaust system. The cast steel manifolds and aluminum cylinder heads expand and contract at different rates as they heat up. 

• The Issue: Over time, this constant movement snaps the steel mounting bolts, usually at the back of the engine.
• The Sound: A sharp, loud, rhythmic “tick-tick-tick” or “clap” heard during a cold start.
• Key Indicator: The noise disappears or fades significantly after 1 to 5 minutes as the metal expands and “self-seals” the leak.
• Fix: Replacing the broken studs and the manifold gasket. 

2. Lifter and Camshaft Failure (The “True” Hemi Tick) 

This is a internal mechanical failure that can eventually destroy the engine if left alone. 

• The Issue: Small needle bearings inside the roller lifters seize up due to poor lubrication (often from excessive idling). The lifter then stops rolling and instead grinds against the camshaft, flattening the cam lobe.
• The Sound: A consistent, rhythmic metallic pinging or tapping sound.
• Key Indicator: The noise persists even when the engine is fully warm and is most audible at hot idle (like in a drive-thru). It does not go away with heat.
• Fix: Expensive internal repair requiring replacement of the camshaft and all lifters. 

How to Tell the Difference

Feature	Exhaust Manifold Leak	Lifter/Cam Failure
When it happens	Cold start only	Hot idle or all the time
Warm-up effect	Noise goes away	Noise stays or gets louder
Sound location	Near the wheel wells	Top of engine (valve covers)
Severity	Annoying, but not fatal	Critical; sends metal through engine

Does the ticking in your truck go away once it’s warmed up, or is it a constant sound while you’re driving?

Roque: it is obvious that if it goes away it is normal wearing and if no, we have a problem

That’s exactly the right way to look at it. If it stays quiet after warming up, you’re usually just dealing with the “tax” of owning a Hemi—broken manifold bolts are practically a rite of passage for RAM owners.

However, if that sound sticks around, it’s a warning sign that the camshaft and lifters are eating each other. At that point, the metal shavings from the failing parts can start circulating through the rest of your oil system, which is where a “fixable” problem turns into needing a whole new engine.

Since you’ve got a handle on the “good” vs. “bad” noise, a great next step is to check for exhaust soot around the manifold heat shields or broken bolt heads in the wheel wells.

Would you like to know the typical repair costs for fixing the manifold bolts versus a full cam and lifter job?

Yes

The repair costs for a RAM 5.7L Hemi vary drastically depending on whether you are fixing a simple exhaust leak or a major internal engine failure.

Exhaust Manifold Bolt Repair (The “Good” Tick)

This repair is standard for RAM owners. The cost is driven by labor, specifically the time needed to extract broken bolts from the cylinder head. 

• Average Shop Cost: $600 to $1,500 per side.
  • Parts: Manifolds, gaskets, and high-quality bolts (like ARP or Dorman) typically cost $100 to $350.
  • Labor: Expect 3 to 7 hours per side. Dealers often charge a premium for bolt extraction, which can push quotes closer to $2,500 for both sides.
• DIY Cost: Around $100 to $300 for parts if you have the tools to extract broken studs yourself

Camshaft and Lifter Replacement (The “Bad” Tick) 

This is a major surgical procedure for the engine. It requires removing the intake manifold, timing cover, and both cylinder heads. 

• Average Shop Cost: $4,000 to $7,000.
  • Parts: A full kit with a new camshaft, 16 lifters, gaskets, and head bolts typically costs $700 to $2,000.
  • Labor: This is a 12 to 20-hour job. Dealership labor rates can make this repair alone exceed $7,000.
• The “Engine Swap” Threshold: If a shop quotes you more than $6,000, many experts recommend simply buying a remanufactured crate engine with a warranty for roughly $3,000 to $5,000 plus installation. 

Summary of Costs (2024–2025 Estimates)

Repair Type	Parts Cost	Labor Hours	Total Professional Cost
Exhaust Manifold (1 side)	$100 – $350	3 – 7 hrs	$600 – $1,300
Exhaust Manifolds (Both)	$200 – $600	6 – 10 hrs	$1,200 – $2,500
Camshaft & Lifters	$700 – $2,000	12 – 20 hrs	$4,000 – $7,000+
Full Engine Swap	$3,000 – $6,000	10 – 15 hrs	$5,000 – $9,000

Are you considering a DIY repair for the manifolds, or are you looking for recommendations on high-quality parts to ensure the fix lasts longer than the factory originals?

It’s OK for the moment, thank you